1970s Style: A Fashion History Lesson

Welcome to the first in our new series of fashion history lessons. Joanie’s Founder, Lucy, is taking us back through the eras with a rundown of who’s who and what was (and still is in our book!) cool way back when. First up - 1970s style!

We’re starting with the '70s, sometimes referred to as ‘the decade that style forgot.’ Well, I beg to differ - what a time to be alive! A period of vast technological development and fast change driven by the people we now call the ‘baby boomers,’ the post- war surge in population hit their twenties during the 1970s, and boy, did they go for it?!

1970s Style: The Basics

When it comes to style, the 1970s was a definitive era. There's a reason that the '70s reemerges, season after season. Famed for eclectic influences, flowing skirts and dresses, and oversized sunglasses, the '70s style was both quintessentially glam and undeniably cool. Let's take a look back at the bold, brash, and beautiful 1970s fashions and the style icons whose clothes we still covet today!

In terms of fabrics of the era, the start of the decade was filled with natural cottons, cheesecloths, velvets, and corduroys, until the developments of synthetic fibres hit their stride. Later in the '70s, nylon, polyester, and acrylic became much cheaper and, alas, more popular due to their wrinkle resistance and durability. The plastic fantastic age, where this new ‘wonder material’ was going to change the world. Well, it certainly achieved that, but I'm not sure anyone would have expected it to have such environmentally destructive consequences back then.

Early '70s Style

Following the Summer of Love in 1967 and Woodstock Festival in 1969, the '60s became the '70s and bohemian hippie style was here to stay. The eponymous band tee became a major fashion player with the music of this era, producing some of THE most iconic graphics.

Maxi dresses were de rigueur: diaphanous sleeves, velvet, and crochet trims were all popular additions. Outfits were accessorised with flower crowns, oversized sunglasses, and shawls or long silk scarves to twirl to the music. Icons of this look included Janis Joplin, Joni Mitchell, and latterly Stevie Nicks. Labels such as Gunne Sax and Laura Ashley led the way in the new style of boho dressing. Ossie Clark and the beautiful prints of our very own Celia Birtwell defined this era with panache.

In the UK, it was all about Glam Rock - the freshest, campest, most flamboyant of all the rock genres. Platform shoes, satin flares, make-up, and glitter - Glam fashion was very much a menswear look at the time, but it's one we all love to lean into now.

Glam transitioned into Art Rock, and Messrs Bowie, Bolan, et Mercury trailblazed the way in elaborate, showstopping stagewear in new synthetic stretch fabrics that allowed bolder colours and complex psychedelic prints that still feel wild today. When music and fashion are as intrinsically linked as they were in the early '70s, something special happens. This potently creative period endures all trends - it will never not be cool. Special mention goes to Brian Ferry, my forever fashion crush.

Mid-'70s Style

The Jumpsuit dominated the era as the silhouette du jour. From its humble military origins when this one-piece garment was literally designed for parachutists jumping out of planes, the jumpsuit finally found its stride in the mid-seventies.

From the skin-tight, body-conscious Bob Mackie-designed catsuits seen on Cher, to the rhinestone-encrusted leather stage suits worn by Elvis, there was a jumpsuit for everyone. A unisex look epitomised by Ziggy Stardust’s famous ‘all in one’s that reset fashion boundaries.

Personally, one of my favourite looks of the 1970s is the more relaxed denim trend of the mid-seventies exemplified by the hit TV show Charlie’s Angels. Three crime-flighting mega babes clad in double denim; indigo bell bottoms, chambray shirts and the most perfect vintage sweatshirts/neckerchief combo.

Corduroy flares, dungarees and yet more jumpsuits, always accessorised with aviator glasses and great hair. The show represented female empowerment, and Farrah Fawcett’s ‘Angels look echoed that of Gloria Steinem, leader of the second wave of feminism in the States around the same time.

Late '70s Style

Punk exploded onto the scene in 1976. The subculture to end all subcultures, an expression of rebellion that rejected the mainstream. Deliberately offensive and aggressively modern, punk was the antithesis of flower power: gone are the breezy Californian vibes, replaced with gritty political messages and the spiky poseurs of punk.

Leather, studs, stripes, safety pins, provocative slogans, distressed and home-made for ultimate authenticity. Punk was epitomised by Vivienne Westwood and Malcolm McLaren and his band The Sex Pistols, and by Siouxsie Sioux and her signature bondage gear in the UK. In New York City, the famous CBGB club hosted Patti Smith, Debbie Harry and Joan Jett, whose looks define the style of this era.

Masculine silhouettes continued to dominate the later part of the decade. Diane Keaton’s Oscar-winning portrayal of Annie Hall is a masterclass in menswear-does-womenswear. Her Ralph Lauren-curated wardrobe in the movie feels just as fresh today as it did nearly 50 years ago. Waistcoats, kipper ties, loose-fitting khaki chinos, bowler hats and nonchalantly thrown scarves created a look that will be referenced forever.

No style history of the 1970s would be complete without a special nod to the coolest of the cool, Bianca Jagger. Intelligent, glamorous, and impeccably dressed, Jagger redefined bridal style forever by marrying Mick in sharp white tailoring and a floppy hat.

Her love of fashion made her a muse to designers Yves Saint Laurent and Halston, whose sensuous evening looks are a masterclass in glam that we mere mortals can only dream of. The image of her astride a white horse inside New York’s infamous Studio 54 discothèque is 1970s style epitomised: outrageous, extravagant, iconic.

This brings me to D.I.S.C.O… the soundtrack to the end of the seventies when Saturday Night Fever gripped the world. Diana Ross, Chaka Khan, Donna Summer, Chic, Sister Sledge and Sylvester ruled the airwaves. Bell bottoms, trouser suits, hot pants, and flowing dresses embellished with sequins and sparkles were made for dancing the night away.

If I had to define the seventies in a quote, I’d reach for a heroine of mine I was lucky enough to meet a few times. Your homework for this lesson is to be a little bit more Viv - celebrate the small occasions, dress up for you. Make everyday dressing a little more fun!

Thanks for reading. - L