In celebration of one of our most exciting collaborations yet, we’re doing a deep dive into the history of Horrockses Fashions! Read on to find out more about the coveted vintage brand and why they were favoured by A-list celebrities of the ‘50s and ‘60s...

Early Inceptions: John Horrocks and the 18th and 19th century

Horrockses, a textile manufacturer established in 1791 by John Horrocks, is the parent company that would later launch Horrockses Fashions in 1946. Growing from a couple of spinning frames set up in Horrocks’ father’s factory in Bolton to several mills in and around Preston, by the end of the 19th century, Horrockses (then Horrockses, Crewdson & Co.) were trading textiles in several countries, including Portugal, Mexico, India, and China. 

Horrockses cotton was known for its quality, and plans had been drawn up prior to the Second World War to create a line of ready-to-wear women’s clothing using high-quality Horrockses cotton printed with unique designs. The plans stalled because of the war, and the business became involved with the Government’s ‘concentration scheme.’ During this time, several Horrockses factories shut down cotton production, instead manufacturing goods to help with the war effort.

Garment workers sewing inside one of the Horrockses factories.
Garment workers sewing inside one of the Horrockses factories. Image credit: Horrockses.

After the war ended, Horrockses were at a significant advantage: unlike other manufacturers, they had access to a ready supply of material to make off-the-peg clothing. In 1946, Horrockses Fashions was established as a means of promoting their quality cotton piece goods to a wider market. They released their first collection of ready-to-wear dresses in the same year, made from cotton cloth woven at their Preston factory featuring exclusive prints designed in-house.

Designers working on original Horrockses prints.
Designers working on original Horrockses prints. Image credit: Horrockses.

The First Collection

Horrockses Fashions released their first collection in 1946, with dresses priced between two and a half and three guineas, the equivalent of about a weeks’ wage for many people at the time. Another earlier offshoot of Horrockses, R.H. Reynolds Brothers Ltd, manufactured low-cost womenswear and overalls using the same cotton, but the creation of Horrockses Fashions signified a shift towards the production of high-quality ready-to-wear women’s clothing. 

Promotional spread for Horrockses Fashions' first collection in The Drapers’ Record from April 1946.
'Cotton Concerto' - Promotional spread for Horrockses Fashions' first collection in The Drapers’ Record from April 1946. Image credit: Horrockses.

Ready-to-wear clothing was still a relatively new concept in the 1940s, as was the use of cotton as a dressmaking fabric, particularly at the price point Horrockses Fashions were targeting. The quality and vibrancy of the patterns were incredibly impressive, and the level of detail and colour in the cotton prints were compared to that of fine silks. Horrockses Fashions greatly elevated the status of cotton as a dressmaking fabric, even holding regular fashion shows to cement their status as a high-end brand!

Celebrity Fans and ‘Specials’

As well as mass-produced off-the-peg dresses, Horrockses were also known to create tailored one-offs, or ‘specials,’ for celebrities and public figures as a way of advertising their collections. 

Models wearing Horrockses being filmed by the BBC at an early fashion show.
Models wearing Horrockses being filmed by the BBC at an early fashion show. Image Credit: Dr. Christine Boydell.

They even had ties to ABC film studios in the 1940s and 50s, creating dresses and clothing for actresses and their on-screen characters.

The Royal Family and Queen Elizabeth II

In 1952, The Queen (then Princess Elizabeth) selected several dresses from Horrockses latest collection for her Royal Tour of the Commonwealth. The items she had chosen were not initially shared with retailers, so many bought a selection blindly in the hope that she might wear one. 

Queen Elizabeth II wearing a Horrockses Fashions dress in 1953.
Queen Elizabeth II wearing a Horrockses Fashions dress in 1953. Image Credit: Horrockses.

This contributed hugely to their appeal: for the first time, Horrockses Fashions made it possible for many middle and working-class people to own the same dress as the Queen.

Many other members of the royal family were fans of Horrockses designs in the 1950s and beyond, including several Duchesses and Countesses and even Princess Margaret. The only real difference between the off-the-peg dresses available to purchase in shops and the dresses worn by royalty was that the royals had two or three fittings to ensure that the garments fit perfectly and looked like couture. 

Horrockses Legacy

Horrockses Fashions ceased trading as a label in 1983, but that’s not to say that interest in the brand ceased, too. On the vintage market, Horrockses dresses are highly sought after because of their unique designs and superior quality. 

Original invitation to the first Horrockses fashion show.
Original invitation to the first Horrockses fashion show. Image credit: Dr. Christine Boydell.

The tagline ‘this year, next year - and always’ printed on a lightweight cotton invitation to their first fashion show in 1946 rings true today: Horrockses pieces are true heirlooms, which is why they remain popular among collectors and vintage enthusiasts alike.

Horrockses Fashions X Joanie

When creating our Horrockses Fashions X Joanie collection, we sought to create our own modern heirlooms: dresses that will be treasured and handed down like the originals. By collaborating with Horrockses on this range, we have produced a collection of dresses that are easy to wear and care for, with added stretch and an increased size range compared to vintage Horrockses originals. They’re all machine washable, and every style even has pockets!

A special thank you to Dr. Christine Boydell, author of Horrockses Fashions: Off-the-Peg Style in the '40s and '50s. Christine’s greatly informative work provided a detailed historical account of Horrockses Fashions, from which much of the detail in this blog post is taken.